Deck Built-Ins in Seattle: Benches, Planters, and Hidden Storage That Hold Up

Most Seattle homeowners treat their deck like an empty parking lot — a flat surface where furniture comes and goes. But the families who get the most out of their outdoor space do something different: they build into it. Benches that wrap corners. Planters that anchor the edges. Storage boxes that hide cushions, tools, and folded blankets from the November rain. In the Pacific Northwest, where outdoor living seasons are compressed and lot sizes in neighborhoods like Shoreline, Kenmore, and South Bellevue rarely exceed 6,000 square feet, built-in deck features aren't just aesthetic — they're practical geometry. Every linear foot of framed seating is a linear foot you're not filling with bulky patio furniture that needs to be dragged in every October.

The numbers back this up. According to HomeAdvisor's 2025 deck cost data, built-in deck benches run from about $800 to $2,500 per installed linear foot depending on complexity, material, and whether storage is integrated beneath the seat. Composite deck planters with proper drainage come in at roughly $500 to $1,500 per unit, and hidden storage compartments under bench seats typically add $600 to $2,000 depending on the lid style, hinge hardware, and waterproofing method. These aren't small investments — but they're one-time costs built into a structure that lasts 25 to 40 years. Replacing teak patio furniture every five to seven years in Seattle's climate costs more over the same span, and you never get the seamless look that a well-framed built-in delivers.

What makes this work in Seattle specifically is the interplay between our climate and our material options. Cedar built-ins look beautiful in August but will check, split, and weather unevenly if the grain isn't sealed every two to three years — and most homeowners don't do that. Composite bench tops and planter fascia, on the other hand, handle our nine months of wet weather without swelling, warping, or requiring a paintbrush. The Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections includes built-ins as part of the overall deck permit in most cases, which simplifies the approval process considerably when you design everything together from the start. The rest of this article is a complete field guide to deck built-ins in Seattle — what to build, how to frame it, what materials hold up, and what mistakes to avoid.

Why Seattle Decks Benefit More From Built-Ins Than Most Markets

Walk through a neighborhood like Wedgwood, Beacon Hill, or Bothell's Canyon Park and you'll notice something consistent: small-to-medium lots with decks that were built too big for a tight yard or too small to function well as outdoor rooms. The Pacific Northwest housing stock — particularly homes built between 1975 and 2000 — often has decks that were added as afterthoughts, sized for a gas grill and a plastic table, with no thought given to traffic flow, seating capacity, or storage. Built-ins solve all three problems simultaneously.

The Lot-Size Problem

King County's residential zoning frequently caps maximum impervious surface coverage, meaning you can't just keep expanding your deck footprint indefinitely. Once you've committed to a certain square footage, built-ins let you extract far more function from that fixed space. An L-shaped perimeter bench on a 300-square-foot deck can seat eight to ten adults without any freestanding chairs, leaving the center of the deck open for movement. That same deck with six freestanding chairs and a loveseat becomes a maze.

According to the King County Department of Local Services permit information, decks attached to a residence typically need a permit when they exceed certain height or size thresholds. Designing built-ins into the original permitted scope — rather than adding them later — avoids the need for separate alteration permits and ensures your framing inspector signs off on the structural load assumptions for planters, which can be heavy when filled with wet soil.

Furniture Fatigue Is Real

Seattle homeowners who invest in quality outdoor furniture often discover within two to three seasons that even "all-weather" resin wicker or powder-coated aluminum requires more maintenance than advertised in our climate. Mildew on cushion fabric, rust bleed from hardware onto composite decking, UV fading on woven surfaces — these are consistent complaints. Built-ins eliminate a category of replacement expense entirely. The bench is part of the deck; it doesn't leave, doesn't tip in wind events, and doesn't require off-season storage in your garage.

Resale Perception

Real estate agents who specialize in Seattle's eastside market — Kirkland, Redmond, Bothell, Woodinville — consistently report that decks with integrated features photograph and show better than decks with furniture staged on them. Built-in benches and planters signal a premium, custom build that buyers respond to emotionally. While quantifying exact resale lift is difficult, the structural and aesthetic quality of built-ins communicates craftsmanship in a way that portable furniture doesn't.

Types of Deck Built-Ins: What to Build and Where

Not all built-ins serve the same purpose, and the right configuration depends on your deck's size, shape, and how you actually use the space. Here's a breakdown of the most common types we install in the greater Seattle area.

L-Shaped and Perimeter Bench Systems

The L-shaped perimeter bench is the workhorse of deck built-ins. It wraps two adjoining sides of a deck — typically along a railing line and across a back wall — creating a defined seating zone without consuming center-deck space. For a standard 12x16 deck in a neighborhood like Kenmore or Mill Creek, an L-bench running ten linear feet along one side and eight linear feet along the perpendicular creates seating for eight to ten adults.

Structurally, these benches are framed with pressure-treated 2x4 or 2x6 lumber on 16-inch centers, with a top plate that the seat surface fastens to. The seat surface itself is where material choice matters most. Cedar looks warm and traditional but will develop surface checks — small cracks that run with the grain — within two to three wet seasons in Seattle without annual sealing. Composite boards from brands like Trex, Fiberon, or TimberTech resist moisture intrusion at the surface level because they're capped on all four sides with a polymer shell. Standing water from Seattle's winter rain doesn't penetrate the surface, which means no seasonal swelling that cracks mortise-and-tenon joinery or pops fasteners.

Bench seat height is typically 17 to 19 inches from the deck surface — matching standard chair seat height for comfortable seating. Width ranges from 15 to 20 inches depending on whether you want a single-board seat surface or a wider, more lounge-like configuration.

Hidden Storage Under Bench Seats

Once you're already framing a bench, adding a storage compartment under the seat is the most cost-effective upgrade you can make. The structure is already there; you're simply adding a hinged lid mechanism and waterproofing the interior.

Storage boxes under bench seats are ideal for Seattle conditions because they give you a place to store marine-grade cushions between uses without hauling them inside. They're also useful for storing deck tools, gardening gloves, outdoor toys, and the assorted equipment that otherwise clutters a small urban yard.

The critical design element is the lid. Heavy-duty piano hinges — the type used in outdoor storage benches and marine cabinetry — provide the most reliable seal when combined with a weatherstripping gasket around the perimeter. The lid itself should be fabricated from the same composite or cedar material used for the bench top, keeping the visual language consistent. A poorly designed lid that doesn't shed water will allow pooling that eventually penetrates the hinge hardware and causes rust bleed onto your deck surface — a particularly visible problem on lighter composite boards.

Interior waterproofing matters even with a good lid. We typically line storage boxes with a closed-cell foam backer or EPDM rubber sheet on the base and sides to prevent condensation from contacting stored items or migrating into the framing below. Ventilation gaps at the back of the box — typically 1/4-inch reveals between the framing and the deck boards — allow airflow without admitting direct rain intrusion.

Built-In Planters

Deck planters done correctly are one of the most striking built-in features you can add. Done incorrectly, they're one of the fastest ways to rot out your deck framing. The difference comes down to drainage architecture.

The interior of any deck planter must be designed to prevent water from sitting in contact with the structural framing or the back of the fascia boards. Seattle receives roughly 38 inches of precipitation annually, and a planter that isn't properly drained will trap water during our October-through-April wet season, creating conditions for fungal growth and wood decay even in pressure-treated lumber.

The correct approach uses three layers of water management:

1. Root barrier liner. A heavy-duty EPDM or polyethylene liner is installed inside the framed planter box before soil goes in. This liner prevents root growth from penetrating the framing and provides a first-line waterproof membrane.

2. Raised interior base with weep holes. The liner should drain to a raised false bottom with weep holes — typically 3/4-inch holes drilled every 8 inches along the low point of the planter. This allows excess irrigation and rainwater to drain through and away from the structural members rather than pooling inside the liner.

3. Drainage aggregate layer. A 2-inch layer of pea gravel or crushed rock beneath the planting soil creates a capillary break that keeps soil from blocking the weep holes. This is standard horticultural practice for any container planting but especially important in enclosed built-in planters where you can't observe internal drainage conditions.

Planter fascia is typically composite or cedar — matching the bench and decking materials — with a top cap that deflects water away from the liner junction. Planter sizing in Seattle residential projects typically runs 18 to 24 inches wide and 24 to 36 inches long, with interior soil depth of 12 to 18 inches for ornamental shrubs, grasses, or flowering perennials.

Outdoor Bar Counters and Kitchen Prep Stations

For decks that serve as primary outdoor entertaining spaces, an integrated bar counter or kitchen prep station takes built-ins to a different level of function. These features are particularly popular in homes where the deck connects to an indoor kitchen through sliding glass or bifold doors — a common configuration in 1990s-era homes throughout Redmond, Sammamish, and Issaquah.

A basic outdoor bar counter is framed with pressure-treated lumber and finished with composite or natural stone countertop material. The counter height is typically 36 to 42 inches — standard bar or counter height — and the structure usually integrates a lower shelf for storage, beverage refrigerator rough-in, or keg tap access.

Kitchen prep stations add a utility sink (requiring both water supply and drain rough-in, coordinated with a licensed plumber), a prep surface, and typically some form of storage below. These projects interface with mechanical and plumbing permits in addition to the structural deck permit, so the design coordination is more involved. But in the right setting — a large primary deck with good traffic flow and access to water supply — an integrated prep station is transformative for outdoor entertaining.

Pergola-Integrated Seating

Pergolas combined with built-in seating create the most architecturally complete outdoor room configuration. The pergola provides a defined overhead plane that makes the seating feel enclosed and intentional rather than exposed. Structurally, pergola-integrated benches often anchor to the pergola posts directly, which simplifies the framing and creates a visual line that ties horizontal (bench) and vertical (post) elements together.

In Seattle's climate, pergola-integrated seating benefits from some form of overhead weather protection — a louvered aluminum pergola system like those from Louvreq or Struxure, or a simple polycarbonate panel infill between the rafters — because the bench is fixed and can't be moved inside when weather turns. Marine-grade cushions are mandatory for pergola seating in Seattle; standard outdoor cushions will develop mildew within one wet season.

Framing Materials: What Goes Under the Surface

The framing of a built-in is invisible once installed but determines everything about longevity and structural performance. In Seattle's climate, framing material choices matter more than they do in drier climates because ground moisture, condensation, and direct rain exposure are all elevated.

Pressure-Treated Lumber: The Non-Negotiable Base

All structural framing for deck built-ins in Seattle should use pressure-treated (PT) lumber — either #2 Southern Yellow Pine or Hem-Fir, both rated for above-ground or ground-contact use depending on the application. Modern PT lumber uses copper azole (CA) or alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) preservatives, which replaced chromated copper arsenate (CCA) in 2004. These preservatives are corrosive to standard steel hardware, so all fasteners, joist hangers, and structural connectors must be rated for ACQ/CA compatibility — typically hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel.

For bench framing, 2x4 PT at 16-inch centers is standard for spans up to 6 feet. For spans beyond 6 feet, or for any configuration where a large planter will sit on or against the bench structure, 2x6 PT provides appropriate load margin. The King County Building Standards Title 16 governs structural requirements for attached structures in unincorporated King County; Seattle jurisdiction falls under the Seattle Building Code, which adopts the International Building Code with local amendments.

Surface Materials: Cedar vs. Composite

The surface materials — bench tops, planter fascia, storage lids, counter surfaces — are what you see and touch every day. This is where the cedar vs. composite decision plays out most visibly.

For bench tops that will experience regular wet-weather exposure and cushion contact, composite wins on every practical metric in Seattle's climate. The polymer-capped surface doesn't absorb moisture, so it doesn't harbor the mold and mildew that cedar bench tops can develop in shaded, damp locations like north-facing decks under tree canopy — a common situation in Seattle neighborhoods like Maple Leaf, Ravenna, and Laurelhurst.

For planter fascia — the vertical face boards visible on the outside of the planter box — cedar is often acceptable because it's largely protected from standing water by the liner system inside. Some homeowners prefer cedar fascia for the visual warmth it adds against composite decking. Either approach works structurally; the material choice is primarily aesthetic.

Railing Code and Bench Height: A Critical Interaction

This is the design issue most homeowners and even some contractors overlook when planning bench-along-railing configurations. It's also the issue most likely to cause a failed inspection if not designed correctly from the start.

The 36-Inch Rule Measured From the Bench Seat

The International Residential Code (IRC), adopted in both Seattle and King County, requires guardrails on decks more than 30 inches above grade to be at least 36 inches tall. Here's the critical detail: that 36-inch minimum is measured from the walking surface — which, when a bench is installed, becomes the bench seat, not the deck floor.

This means a railing that is 36 inches tall from the deck floor becomes effectively only 18 to 19 inches tall from the bench seat, which is a serious safety hazard and a code violation. To comply, you have two options:

Option 1: Raise the railing. Design the railing system to be 36 inches minimum measured from the bench seat height. This often means a total railing height of 53 to 55 inches from the deck floor — which can look and feel unusually tall and may affect sightlines.

Option 2: Set the bench back from the railing. Position the bench far enough from the railing that the railing's 36-inch height from the deck floor is maintained as the guardrail reference, with the bench treated as an interior furniture element rather than an elevated surface adjacent to the guardrail. This typically requires 18 inches or more of clearance between the bench seat edge and the railing face.

In practice, Option 2 is usually the more elegant design solution and the one we most frequently recommend. It keeps railing heights normal, preserves sightlines, and avoids the visual awkwardness of an unusually tall railing.

Baluster Spacing and Bench Interactions

Wherever a bench runs adjacent to a railing, baluster spacing must still comply with the 4-inch maximum opening rule. The bench seat itself can create shadowed zones behind balusters where children can climb, so some jurisdictions look closely at the geometry of bench-to-baluster proximity. A framing inspection before surface installation is standard, and the inspector will evaluate railing height from bench surface during this inspection. See our deck railing options guide for a full breakdown of railing systems and code compliance in Seattle.

Cost Breakdown: What Seattle Homeowners Actually Pay

Pricing for built-ins varies considerably based on material selection, complexity of drainage or waterproofing systems, and whether the work is done as part of a new deck build or as a retrofit to an existing structure. Retrofitting built-ins to an existing deck is significantly more expensive on a per-feature basis because it requires disconnecting existing railing sections, re-engineering framing attachments, and often modifying decking boards in the area of the new feature.

Bench Pricing by Configuration

A simple perimeter bench — pressure-treated frame, composite seat, no storage — runs approximately $800 to $1,200 per linear foot installed in Seattle. This price includes framing, composite or cedar seat material, attachment hardware, and labor. For a 12-linear-foot L-bench configuration, budget $9,600 to $14,400 installed.

Adding hidden storage under the bench seat increases cost to approximately $1,400 to $2,500 per linear foot, depending on lid configuration, hinge hardware, and interior waterproofing. Piano hinge lids with weatherstripping seals and EPDM interior lining represent the upper end of this range. The cost jump is significant, but storage integration on a new bench is far less expensive than retrofitting storage into an existing bench.

Pergola-integrated benches, where the framing connects to pergola posts and the design incorporates integrated lighting or outlet rough-in, run $1,500 to $3,000 per linear foot at the high end of the market.

Planter Pricing

A standard built-in planter — PT frame, composite or cedar fascia, root barrier liner, drainage aggregate, weep holes — runs $500 to $1,000 for a smaller unit (18x24 inches) to $1,000 to $1,500 for a larger unit (24x36 inches or larger). Premium planters with built-in drip irrigation rough-in or decorative stone cap details push to $1,500 to $2,500 per unit.

Storage Box Pricing

Standalone storage boxes — those not integrated under a bench seat — typically cost $600 to $1,500 depending on size and lid hardware. Purpose-built deck storage boxes with matching composite or cedar lids and heavy-duty piano hinges are at the higher end. See our full Seattle deck cost guide for a broader breakdown of per-feature pricing in the Seattle market.

New Build vs. Retrofit Cost Comparison

The retrofit premium is the main reason we recommend thinking about built-ins before or during your primary deck construction. If you know you want a bench along the back wall in two years, frame for it now. The marginal cost of blocking and rough-framing for a future built-in is a few hundred dollars when the deck is being built — and several thousand when the inspector has to re-examine an existing structure. Check out our how to read a deck quote guide for help understanding how contractors price these features in bids.

Permit Process for Deck Built-Ins in Seattle

Most built-ins are not standalone permit items — they're included as part of the overall deck permit, provided they're designed into the original submission. This is one of the practical advantages of planning built-ins at the outset.

What Gets Reviewed

The Seattle SDCI deck permit process requires drawings that accurately represent the deck structure, including any attached features. If your bench runs along a railing line, the inspector will review the bench height relative to guardrail height requirements. If your planter is large — say, 24x48 inches with 18 inches of soil depth — the structural engineer of record may need to account for that load in the joist sizing and ledger attachment calculations.

Seattle's minimum live load design requirement for decks is 40 pounds per square foot for residential use. A large built-in planter with saturated soil can add significant concentrated load — wet soil at 18-inch depth in a 24x48-inch planter weighs approximately 170 to 200 pounds, which is within acceptable margins for a properly designed deck frame but warrants explicit review.

When You Need a Separate Alteration Permit

If you're adding built-ins to an existing permitted deck, Seattle SDCI treats this as an alteration permit. This is a separate submission from the original deck permit and requires its own review and inspection. The process is generally less complex than a full deck permit but adds time (typically 2 to 6 weeks for review in 2025) and cost ($400 to $800 in permit fees). See our King County permit guide for a detailed walkthrough of the permit process.

What Doesn't Typically Require Its Own Permit

Freestanding (non-attached) deck furniture, even if it's heavy or semi-permanent, doesn't require a permit. However, any element that's fastened to the deck frame or railing system is considered part of the structure and should be covered under the deck permit. The distinction matters because work done outside of permit scope can create liability issues at resale or during an insurance claim.

Cushions, Fabrics, and Finish Details for Seattle Conditions

A built-in bench without cushions can be used, but it's not particularly comfortable for extended sitting. Choosing the right cushion system for Seattle's climate is more nuanced than it appears.

Marine-Grade Fabric: The Right Call

Outdoor fabrics rated for marine use — Sunbrella being the most widely known brand — are genuinely different from standard outdoor furniture fabric. The difference is in the fiber construction: Sunbrella uses solution-dyed acrylic fibers where the color penetrates to the core of each fiber strand rather than being applied as a surface coating. This means UV fading is dramatically reduced compared to cheaper polyester-blend outdoor fabrics.

More importantly for Seattle, solution-dyed acrylic is moisture-resistant, mold-resistant, and quick-drying in ways that standard outdoor polyester foam cushions are not. A cushion left on a bench through a Seattle October rainstorm — which will happen regardless of good intentions — should recover without permanent mildew formation if it uses a marine-grade cover and an open-cell, quick-dry foam insert.

Avoid polyurethane foam in any cushion that will experience regular outdoor exposure in Seattle. Polyurethane foam retains moisture and creates ideal conditions for mold growth within one to two wet seasons.

Storage Integration for Cushion Management

The ideal system combines marine-grade cushions with the storage built right into the bench beneath them. The cushions can be placed on the bench for use and dropped into the storage compartment below when rain approaches or the season ends. This eliminates the garage storage problem and keeps cushions accessible enough that homeowners actually use their outdoor space.

Size coordination is critical: before finalizing the interior dimensions of any storage compartment below a bench seat, lay out your planned cushion dimensions and confirm they fit through the lid opening and into the compartment depth. A 4-inch-deep bench cushion in a 24-inch seat width has a compressed thickness of about 3.5 inches — confirm your storage box provides at least 22 to 24 inches of interior clear height from the box base to the underside of the lid for comfortable retrieval.

Hardware and Finish Details

Hardware details on built-ins are where the quality of a project is visible at close range. All exposed fasteners on composite or cedar built-ins should be color-matched plugged screws or hidden fastener systems that eliminate visible screw heads entirely. Stainless steel hardware is preferred over galvanized in Seattle's climate — galvanized hardware will develop surface rust bleed that stains composite decking, particularly light-toned boards. See our composite decking page for more details on compatible hardware specifications for composite systems.

Bench corners and planter top caps should use tight mitered or coped joinery rather than butt joints. Butt joints on horizontal surfaces create end-grain exposure points that, in cedar, absorb moisture and accelerate decay at the joint. In composite, butt joints on horizontal cap details simply look unfinished. The labor investment in quality joinery on built-in detail work is what separates a custom-quality result from a production build.

Choosing Materials for Long-Term Performance in Seattle

We've touched on cedar vs. composite throughout this article, but it's worth dedicating specific attention to this decision for built-in applications, which have unique performance requirements compared to flat decking.

Why Composite Wins for Bench Tops Specifically

Horizontal surfaces on built-ins accumulate standing water in ways that a sloped deck surface does not. A bench seat is — by design — relatively flat. Rain pools on it. Cushions are placed and removed while wet. Leaves and debris collect in corners. These conditions accelerate the degradation of any organic material (cedar, ipe, teak) faster than a typical deck surface would experience.

Composite bench tops from products like Trex Enhance or Transcend are capped on all four sides with a polymer shell, meaning water contact at the surface doesn't penetrate to the wood fiber core. This is the key advantage over uncapped or single-side-capped composite products. Full-cap construction is standard on current-generation Trex, Fiberon, and TimberTech products — verify cap coverage before specifying any product for horizontal bench applications.

For a deeper comparison of composite products available in the Seattle market, see our Trex vs. Fiberon vs. TimberTech comparison.

PVC Decking for High-Moisture Built-In Applications

For planters, storage box lids, and anywhere that moisture exposure is particularly intense, cellular PVC decking (distinct from composite) is worth considering. PVC contains no wood fiber at all, meaning it truly cannot absorb water or support mold growth. Products like Azek or Wolf PVC are significantly more expensive than composite — typically 30 to 50% more per board foot — but in high-moisture applications like planter cap details or storage lid surrounds, the zero-moisture-absorption characteristic is genuinely valuable. Learn more about PVC applications on our PVC decking page.

Cedar for Specific Built-In Applications

We don't write off cedar in built-ins entirely. Western red cedar, when properly selected (clear, tight grain), properly fastened (stainless steel screws with countersunk plugs), and properly maintained (annual cleaning, biennial sealing), performs acceptably on bench tops and planter fascia in many Seattle applications. The honest answer is that most homeowners don't maintain cedar at the frequency required to prevent weathering in our climate, which is why composite is the default recommendation. But for homeowners who want a natural aesthetic and commit to maintenance, clear cedar built-ins done well are beautiful and durable. See our cedar decking guide for full maintenance specifications.

For a comprehensive comparison of staining requirements vs. composite maintenance profiles, see our deck staining vs. composite article.

Planning Your Built-In Project: How to Get Started

Built-ins are most cost-effective and most successful when they're planned before the deck is built, not after. If you're at the design phase for a new deck, this is the moment to lock in bench locations, planter positions, and storage compartment placement — so the framing is sized correctly from the start and your permit drawings reflect the full scope of the project.

Start With How You Use Your Outdoor Space

Before thinking about what looks good in a photo or what you've seen on Pinterest, think about your actual outdoor habits. How many people do you regularly entertain? Do you want the deck to function as an outdoor dining room, a lounge area, or a working outdoor kitchen? Do you have young children who will use the deck frequently? Is your primary constraint space, storage, or aesthetics?

The answers shape the built-in program. A family of four who uses the deck primarily for weekday dinners and weekend entertaining is probably best served by a perimeter bench on one side plus storage for cushions and tools — a configuration that seats eight without permanent furniture and keeps the deck clear for a table and chairs. A couple who entertains large groups and wants a dedicated bar zone benefits from a counter along one wall with bar stool clearance in front. A homeowner with a small lot in Shoreline who needs the deck to function as a secondary living room in summer needs the full treatment — L-bench, planter anchors at corners, and integrated storage throughout.

Work With a Contractor Who Designs and Builds

Built-ins that look seamless are designed that way from the start. The bench height, seat depth, storage opening dimensions, planter cap profiles, and railing interaction all need to be resolved on paper before a single board is cut. Contractors who only build — without design capability — will often produce technically correct but visually awkward results because the details weren't resolved before framing began. When evaluating deck contractors for a built-in project, ask to see photos of completed built-in work specifically. See our how to find a deck builder guide and questions to ask your deck builder for guidance on evaluating contractors.

Budget and Financing

Built-ins add meaningfully to a deck project budget, but they also add more to the finished product than almost any other upgrade. For homeowners working within a budget, we recommend prioritizing in this order: storage bench first (highest function-to-cost ratio), then planter if aesthetics are important, then bar counter or kitchen features if entertaining is a priority.

Financing options exist for deck projects that include built-ins. Our deck financing guide for Seattle covers the options available to Washington homeowners, including home equity lines, contractor financing programs, and unsecured home improvement loans.

If you're planning a deck project in the greater Seattle area — whether it's a new build with integrated seating and planters or a retrofit of built-ins to an existing structure — we'd welcome the conversation. The Seattle Decking Company has been building decks and custom built-ins across King and Snohomish counties for years, and we bring design-build capability to every project so the details are resolved before construction begins.

Call us at (425) 675-6259 to talk through your project. We serve Bothell, Kenmore, Kirkland, Shoreline, Woodinville, Redmond, and surrounding communities. You can also reach us through our contact page to request a consultation. Let's build something that actually fits your life — and holds up through everything a Seattle winter throws at it.